The Flatirons are rock formations in the western United States, near Boulder, Colorado, consisting of flatirons. There are five large, numbered Flatirons ranging from north to south (First through Fifth, respectively) along the east slope of Green Mountain (elev. 8,148 ft or 2,484 m) – Wikipedia
Everything was pretty much packed, we just had to grab the duffel bag with all the trad gear. We woke at 5 and got to Chautauqua around 6, the mountains becoming on the horizon as they slowly drew near. We finalised our small packs, had a quick breaky eaten from a peanut butter jar and geared up wearing harnesses, helmets, Alanna a rope backpack whilst I took it the hardware. We were about to head up the walking track when I noticed the hand written ranger sign trekking people to pay for parking. Dang! I had checked the signs around where we’d parked but we quickly ascertained that the whole area was paid parking. Poopy. I wanted to drive around to look for a free spot but Alanna said it was Boulder as if I should know that was tautology or axiomatic for paid parking. With the storms forecast for early afternoon Alanna paid for 6.5hrs and I tried to ignore my loathing for paid parking.
We steadily gained elevation, glad we hadn’t started any later, as it was already starting to get warm.
A couple of people were free soloing up the route we were planning to go up. Whilst not difficult I still found it surprising how many people free solo here.
Reaching the base, the climb seemed shorter than it had from the distance. The pine tree which was the top of the first pitch was pretty obvious. After completing a couple of last minute things we were on our way. Right as I was starting up a group of three arrived. There was a lot more pro than I was expecting and I found a lot of placements which wasn’t consistent with what I had read. It also felt unfamiliar laybacking on terrain that was much less steep than I was used to. Close to the tree I realised I’d climbed a different line. The other group climbed the line with the two eyebolts.
I was surprised when the guy leading sort of pushed in next to me and asked if he could let his rope bank up behind and next to me. I guessed correctly; he was a guide for a commercial company. He’d obviously guided this route a lot of time and his enjoyment of it seemed to have departed.
For the next couple of pitches we were very much on top of each other which reduced enjoyment somewhat. Alanna and I felt a bit sorry for the clients… we warned them about a wasp next part way up the next pitch and discussed what maybe to do when they couldn’t hear their guide and were uncertain whether they should stop belaying/start climbing.
On the third pitch I climbed a harder line parallel to the other group. I got some placements I was pretty happy with including slinging a horn and a couple of nuts on my anchor including an edgewise one. Our rope pulled me up a little short of where I’d planned since we’d used the rope to sling a giant flake at the last anchor (a quad runner would have probably done the trick here if you have one). So once Alanna was up, she led up a bit further where we found a bit of shade beside a boulder and small tree. We rested here a bit to let the other group get away.
Instead of taking the line it seemed was most trafficked I traversed back to the left and climbed up the steepest part of the bulge. It was fun climbing and I soon topped out on Party Ledge where I quickly made an anchor from a convenient thread and slinging a rock. Some larger clouds were starting to blow in and I was glad for the temporary shade. I free soloed the next pitch, and Alanna got a belay just for one little bit.
P6 is probably the most interesting. Traversing up under the last of an overhanging flake it soon turns into a deep flute that can’t quite be called a chimney. I ran it out a bit I still got a bit of rope drag from not extending a couple of pieces the right amount as it wondered this way and that. I soon gained the ridge and peered down the other side of the slanting bedding planes. I built an anchor in the shade here, but in hindsight should have continued up another 6m to avoid a mini pitch.
The route here joins the north arête continuing along the crenellated skyline. There were at least 3 small towers to scale. A guy free soloing the route we were on passed us just before the summit and advised us on a cool alternate line to the top of the true summit. We hung out on top for a bit before abseiling down the back. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly with the surrounding landscape also sloping up with the Flatirons it was only 30m to drop down and join all the people how had taken the walking track up.
Annoyingly the 6.5hrs of parking we had paid for had maybe run out; we couldn’t really remember but had to try to extend or rush back. In the end since Alanna had to grab some of her things from the base of he climb I decided to jog back. Happy for the aircon I did some laps around the park hoping the ranger hadn’t fined us electronically. I found a station with some short stories (Snap Judgement / Spooked). I spied Alanna heading down and headed around to collect her.
All in all it was a fun trip though I think we’ll try to avoid weekends in the future so we don’t have to stress out about the parking and also enjoy having less people around as it is quite a touristy spot.